Starting Bee Keeping

This page is intended to provide information to those curious about bee keeping.  Visitors interested in simply purchasing honey may wish to skip this page as it is intended primarily as an introduction to bee-keeping for those considering taking up the pastime or intending to develop it into a worthwhile and environmentally sound business.

Before embarking on a bee-keeping project there are a number of aspects to consider:

1               Location:  It is perfectly possible to keep one or two hives in suburban garden – and many beekeepers do so.  A prospective beekeeper may wish to select a sunny spot with the hive entrance facing south.  Bees were originally a tropical species and can tolerate higher temperatures than many other insects.  They maintain a hive temperature of 37C in the hive and in temperate latitudes the bees need to put energy into the maintenance of this temperature for the benefit of their young.  If the orientation of the hive assists in this there is less of a drag on the net energy expenditure of the hive.

It is a sad fact of life that a hive may be pushed over by a “person of contracted intellect” (a yobbo). They do not usually do this twice as the guard-bees take a dim view of such practices.   The writer once had a hive moved several feet (attempted theft) before the bees came out to “discourage” them.  Nonetheless the attentions of the intellectually challenged are not to be invited and it is therefore optimal if the hive/s are not in line of sight from a public walk-way.

Dont mess with my hive unless you feel lucky!!

2               Getting Stung: As a beekeeper – you WILL get stung.  Being stung is unpleasant and even painful – and may be the reason that less than 20% of new beekeepers persist beyond the first year.  There are a number of ways that this can be avoided and they need to be taken seriously.  If you are stung heavily by a number of bees it can be potentially serious so they need to be treated with respect.  Firstly, invest in a good all-body bee-suite.  Ensure that it is made of a heavy twill.  Cheap light-weight suites are uniformly made of a thinner material and a bee-sting can penetrate it if it happens to be drawn tight over an area of skin.  Invest in a decent pair of bee-gloves.  These should be made of leather – but NOT calfskin.  The writer found to his cost that very fine (expensive) close-fitting gloves provide good feel and control but can sometimes be penetrated by a bee-sting.  When equipping for bee management, use high-ankled boots or shoes.  If there is a gap between the bottom of the bee-suite and a shoe/slipper/trainer – a bee will find it and a sock-thickness will not protect against an irritated bee.  (Bees do not like you pulling their home to pieces).  You will be doing this to inspect that all is well - and therefore for all the very best reasons.  The bees do not know this and may assume that you are a predator wishing to eat their young.  Perhaps therefore we can understand and forgive them being more than a little bit grumpy.

Bees have very good hearing and their sight is very attuned to movement. They also have a very good sense of smell.  Behaviour around a hive is therefore of significance if you wish to keep the bees calm and non-aggressive.  Gentle smooth movements are desirable.  Avoid all jerky actions.  Be silent as possible.  Strictly no whistling or singing.  Do NOT open a hive in thundery conditions.  In addition to the noise of thunder, it is thought that the high static charge in the air upsets the bees in a way not fully understood.  Do not wear perfume, Eu de Cologne, aftershave, deodorant, scented soap or any other perfumed wash around the bees.  Bees have a complex scent-based language.  They exchange information by pheromones.  If you are strong-smelling - you have no idea what you are saying to them.

Lastly – choose your breed of bee.  Like dogs, cats, sheep and cows there are different breeds of bee.  These have their own characteristics.  There are also feral bees of unknown genetics.  The propensity to sting my vary from completely docile (even with the hive opened) to attempting to sting anyone that comes within 20 metres of the hive.  In the event of such an aggressive hive, it is incumbent on the beekeeper to move it away from the public and re-queen it with a breed of queen noted for placid behaviour .  When doing this it must be born in mind that the genetics of a docile breed of queen will take some months to take over the hive as the working life of an adult bee is six weeks and it will previously have spent time in the hive as a nurse bee, larva and egg.

3               Cost:  Beekeeping is a worthwhile but not a cost-free pastime.  A hive can cost £600 and a working colony of bees £300.  On top of this these are the costs of a bee suite (circa £120), and a never-ending list of sundries like a smoker, hive tool, bee medication, gloves.  For practical bee-management reasons, an operation is more practical with two hives.   Extra supers will be required as the original ones fill (hopefully) with honey.  These will need to be populated with frames and wax foundation.  A budget of £1500 for one starter hive is a reasonable starting point for one hive.

4               Breed of Bee:  There are many breeds of bee and – like dogs, cats, birds cows and bats there are significant variations between the breeds in appearance, but more importantly – behaviour.  Bees are rated by beekeepers for the following characteristics (among others):

·      Gentleness

·      Productivity

·      Disease resistance

·      Hygienic behaviour

·      Reluctance to swarm

·      Overwintering ability

·      Speed of spring build-up.

There is also the issue of suitability for the local climate. The most common breeds of bee are:

·      Carniolan

·      Italian

·      Buckfast

·      Russian

·      German

·      Caucasian

It may come as no surprise that the Russian breed of bee is particularly good at overwintering and that the highly productive Italian bee flourishes best in a warm climate.  The Top Class Honey Company uses the Buckfast breed as developed by the monks of Buckfast Abbey.  It is well-behaved, industrious and therefore a heavy producer and - as its breed was developed in the climate of South West England - it is well-adapted to the damp, foggy climate of this green and sceptred isle.

5               Reading vs Practice:  Before venturing into beekeeping it is suggested that extensive reading will be of benefit.  There are many fascinating books both on hard-copy and online.  The books written by Brother Adam of Buckfast Abbey (the breeder of the Buckfast Bee) are particularly recommended.  For a vast technical support site on-line, the David Cushman site is an absolute mine of practical information for anyone approaching beekeeping as a hobby or as a potential business.  This is the link:  http://www.dave-cushman.net/